CeliacChicks Around The World, FRANCE, Restaurants

Gluten-Free Travel: A Gluten-Free Guide To Paris

42 Comments 07 November 2008

Gluten-freeParis,FranceEiffelTower

UPDATE: There is now an official Gluten-Free Guide To France. The information below is still very helpful, but I thought you might want to use it along with our latest blog on eating gluten-free in France.

Many people have emailed me over the years for advice on how to navigate gluten-free through Paris, France. Finally, someone has done some exhaustive research and field investigation with great results. Please welcome Danielle of Mrs.GF as she shares with us the gluten-free details about her fabulous trip to the romantic City Of Lights. Feel free to share any of your own gluten-free nouvelle cuisine finds around France in the comments section below. May our combined tips become the force majeure that leads to a bon voyage! ~Kelly

******
My husband mentioned casually that he thought we should go to Paris for our 10 year anniversary. We went to the countryside of France for our honeymoon, but skipped right over Paris. When time opened up in October, and my parents could come and take care of our children, we booked our trip. I studied, I searched, and took hours and hours to  find anything, and from all apparent appearances, Paris was going to be a difficult experience for someone who could not eat gluten.

Honestly, I didn’t miss eating the bread, or the pastries, because I always had lovely desserts after dinner. Oh, I walked into the boulangeries and smelled the bread and looked at the pastries, I didn’t mind. I even had my husband eat a falafel at the famous L’As du Falafel and had him describe the taste to me, and it didn’t bother me a bit.

I did miss the attitude of bread in France. I wanted to be able to grab that bread, some cheese, and fruit and sit in the Tuileries Garden in the autumn sunshine with my husband. We could have done the same thing with fruit, cheese and the gluten-free crackers I brought with me, I just didn’t want to carry food around, I wanted to throw myself into this experience and see what came out of it.

All the bad things that are out there about Paris, the waiters, chefs and food?

Not true.

Paris was beautiful. The waiters and chefs were friendly and accommodating. I never had a problem with gluten, from the fanciest restaurant to the smallest and busiest cafes. Some relished in taking special care of me, while others took good care and made sure I just blended in with the scene. One waiter apologized to me every time he came by asking my husband if he wanted bread. Another waiter was so matter-of-fact, he would plop down the dishes we ordered and would say, “You. Don’t even touch that,” as he hustled off to another table.

And, my favorite waiter, Anis, rescued us on our first night in Paris. Jet lagged, tired, and starving, we had walked all the way across Paris to go to a restaurant I had emailed about eating there, gluten-free. We finally found it and it was closed. I had forgotten what day it was! I was ready to give up and go back to the hotel to sleep, when my darling husband grabbed my hand, took me to the nearest restaurant, and asked about a gluten-free meal presenting the card. Anis was so effusive, he got us settled in with huge glasses of wine, and hustled us up some beautiful steaks, pomme frites and green beans. We chatted in our broken French, and his better English. And he saved the night for us, and the magic of Paris took us over from that point on.

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TIPS FOR EATING GLUTEN-FREE IN PARIS
To make your gluten free trip to Paris more comfortable and happy, I have gleaned a few tips for you…

* Get some cards that explain gluten free eating in French, whether it is the Triumph cards, or the other cards available on the Internet, www.celiactravel.com. Even with booking ahead, all the chefs wanted to see the cards. I printed up several, but everyone returned them to me. This was not a busy season, so I would still print up a few to have extras.

* Do some research. Find the restaurants you want to try, email them your needs, and book ahead.

* Use the concierge at your hotel, before you even get there. As soon as you book your hotel. Email him/her your needs, send your list of restaurants, and ask for any recommendations. I did this a little too late, but our concierge was fantastic, and got us to try 3 different types of French restaurants, and all the meals and service was fantastic. I think the restaurants liked having a native French speaker make these requests. I would also send a copy of the French card to the concierge.

* Realize that you may not have a lot of variety for breakfast and lunch, and rest on the knowledge that you will have a fabulous dinner that you already booked. Oh, I am not saying that you may not have a great find at lunchtime, but I found myself having a lot of omelettes and pomme frites,  steak and pomme frites (french fries ~ Paris cafes don’t do a lot of frying, I didn’t find one with anything breaded and fried, so everywhere I went for lunch I was able to eat them.) I like to prepare myself mentally about my food before I go somewhere, and I find I stay much happier this way.

* I flew Air France, and they do have gluten-free meals. It seems that they combined a few special requests into one special meal. My meal was gluten-free, dairy-free, low fat, and low sodium. Not very flavorful, but I was grateful to have anything. My husband got the regular meal, and we shared some things. He got a rice pudding that said right on the package “gluten-free”, some good cheese, and a yogurt that I stole. I also stole his real butter, it made the fish taste so much better.

* Speaking just the little French I knew, trying, totally paved the way for some friendly conversations. I had read this while researching about France, and it’s true. I learned how to say, ” Bonjour  Monsieur or Madame. Je suis desole. Je suis allergic au gluten. Qu’est que vous me recomende?” (Hello, I am sorry. I have an allergy to gluten. What do you recommend?)

I used a free pod cast, French Survival Phrases to help with the pronunciation. It was very helpful, especially since I studied Spanish.

* I was shocked at how much 7 macarons cost at Pierre Herme (there was one right around the corner from my hotel, yay!), 16 euros!!! Pierre Herme was more of a boutique feel, nowhere to sit. I was glad I did splurge on them though, those contained all new tastes and textures that totally satisfied my pastry craving.

Talking about macarons, go to Laduree, another famous spot for macarons. We had a late afternoon coffee there and a plate of macarons. I do think I prefer the Laduree macarons as far as flavor, plus with such a pretty restaurant to sit and enjoy them, I thought they had the whole package.

* I went to one natural store, tried the chocolate croissants, then promptly threw them in the trash. I wouldn’t bother, unless you have an apartment, or are there a lot longer, and have a way to heat them up. After that I decided to not eat any more gluten free products, I just stuck with the restaurants.

* Check out my Gluten Free Travel Paris post for more information and links for your upcoming trip to Paris. Also, be sure to check out David Lebovitz’s blog for the perfect scoop on life as an American in Paris. He’s not gluten-free, but he knows good food and shares helpful tips about how to navigate through the city as a visitor.

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As you research, you will find the restaurants that will work for you, and what experiences you want to have. But I also know that before I went, I was dying to find out some good restaurants that other people enjoyed. Here are our 4 restaurants we went to dinner at…

La Gueuze
This is where my lovely waiter Anis saved the day. Our experience here demonstrated that it is all about who serves you. This was a beer house. Nothing really special, and I wouldn’t tell you to trot right over and get that steak. Although, it was one the best steaks I ever had, because of the camaraderie, the joy, and the feeling that my husband and Anis would take care of me. ( located on 19, rue Soufflot ~ 75005 Paris tel. 01 43 54 63 00 )

Au Gourmand ~ This was our longest most gourmet meal. We arrived at 8 o’clock and we were among the first to be seated, which worked out very well. We had time to talk and go over the menu. We got the tasting menu here, and they only had to change 2 items on the whole list – no sauce on my steak course, and a different dessert. It was a taste sensation meal. Very fancy, not cheap. A wonderful experience. ( located on 17, rue Moliere – 75001 Paris, tel. 01 42 96 22 19 )

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Le Timbre ~ I thought I wasn’t going to do this, (show favorites)  BUT…I  loved this restaurant. Absolutely. I could have eaten here every night and enjoyed it as much. This is the restaurant I would return to every time I went to Paris. The menu is on a blackboard, and the restaurant small and cozy. There was only a couple things I could not eat on the menu, everything was was free and clear, totally gluten-free as they were, no modifications. The food was delicious. I adored this restaurant. (located on 3 rue Saint Bueve – 75006 Paris, tel. 33 1 45 49 10 40 )

Aux Vieux Paris ~ We had our last meal here, and I thought that I wasn’t going to like the food very much. I was wrong. The food was fresh and delicious, and I was even able to have all the sauces with my food courses. It is located on the Ile de Cite (the island in the River Seine), tucked down a little side street in an old house built in 1512. It was a fun and romantic evening. ( located on 24, Rue Chanoinesse – 75001 Paris, tel. 01 10 51 78 52 )

I hope this will be helpful for an upcoming trip to Paris. I never got into the chocolates, cheeses or candy stores. There is so much more Paris has to offer the gluten-free traveler, and I just touched the tip. Hmmm, I guess that means we’ll have to plan another trip???  Maybe our 20th anniversary? Even better, the 15th? Oh, honey….

Cheers!!

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Your Comments

42 Comments so far

  1. 1
     
    Katy says:

    This was great! I have big hopes one day to go to Paris, but I thought it was going to be a huge struggle since I can’t have gluten/dairy/soy. The article proved me wrong! But, do you know anything about England and gluten-free food?

    Thanks!
    Katy

    •  
      Gillian says:

      There are more and more places in England becoming aware of the need to provide food for special diets. I live near the Yorkshire Dales.. have had good and bad experiences. unless I know the place I usually ring in advance.. you actually prob. have an advantage over me: I can’t have gluton, citrus, tomato. I have eaten gluton free pasta( salvos Headingley, Leeds) Gluton free fish and chips (many fish shops in my area) But I do find I go to places that charge a little more.. they are the ones of course that prepare fresh from scratch so can alter.Favourite places near me: The Angel at Hetton( Near Skipton)Monkmans Ilkley. A few in Grassington, including a cafe called the retreat.. few in Ilkley.There is a very accomodating cafe in Bingley which does Gluton free bread/ toast and soups.

  2. 2
     
    CeliacChick says:

    Stay tuned, Katy! I have a guest post about London coming up! :)

  3. 3
     
    Janine says:

    Oh what a wonderful trip…I went to Paris years ago before I was diagnosed and have been wanting to go again. This time with my husband and on a Gluten Free diet. I thought this would cause a problem after all that I had heard…but not so! I think we just may do this next Spring and I will be visiting all 4 Resturants…Thank you so much!!!!

  4. 4
     
    Janine says:

    Katy…I loved England, and again want to travel there with my husband and on a Gluten Free diet. I am so looking forward to your article!!!!

    Now I am confused…Paris or London???? Oh maybe both???

  5. 5
     
    Janine says:

    I took a Celebrity Cruise to the Greek Islands, Italy and Turkey this past June of 2008 and ate every single day Gluten Free on the ship! Breafast, Lunch and Dinner. Had a fabulous time and cruise all the time with my husband because of the Gluten Free menus. I cruised with Royal Caribbean, Princess, Disney and most recently Celebrity. All 4 Cruise Lines were able to accomodate me every single day!!!

  6. 6
     
    Keith says:

    Great article and very helpful, especially the tip about carrying the cards. I’ll be in Paris in two weeks for just three days and these tips will be very useful. Perfect timing!!!

  7. 7
     
    lauren says:

    Wow, you are really lucky you had such a great time food wise in paris. I found it extremely difficult when I went there. Waiters were snobby, some restaurants wouldnt even serve me! I ended up eating omelets, steak, and a lot of cheese and fruit. I loved paris, but i found it extremely difficult to communicate my allergy.. even with the gluten intolerance cards. One of my highlights was finding an amazing little healthfood store with gluten free cookies (delicious) and pre packaged gf baguettes which were also wonderful. I cant wait to try out your suggestions next time I am in paris.

  8. 8
     
    Mrs. G. F. says:

    I am so happy that you all have enjoyed this post. It is so important that we share information about gluten free travel. Thanks CeliacChicks for letting me share!!

    Katy ~ I am sure you will have a blast no matter where you go!!

    Janine ~ I went to France for my honeymoon, and thought Paris was going to be hard. I am so happy that this post opened up an opportunity for you! I can’t wait to go back.

    Keith ~ Have fun!! Let us know where you eat!

    Lauren ~ Argh! That must have been so disappointing!! I hope that you have a better time when you go again.

    Have a wonderful day!!

    Danielle

  9. 9
     
    GG says:

    I agree completely! Pairs was wonderful. My husband has Celiacs (just breathing wheat can cause an episode). Everyone in Paris was wonderful to us. We had printed several of the cards from celiactravel.com and they were lifesavers. Once the waiters understood the problem, they took care of us as though we were their children. There NEVER was a problem. We ate at both high end restaurants and at bistros and were delighted. If Celiac’s is an issue, please DO NOT miss the joys of Paris.

  10. 10
     
    annie says:

    There are actually entirely gluten free bed and breakfast retreats in France, and truly amazing places to get gluten free and relatively fresh baked goods…I’m working on a project that will discuss this and more, in relation to France, so I will keep you posted…Sadly, though, language is a near total barrier for most Americans–if you go to France, there are just massive amounts of the food culture that are off limits…Well, massive amounts of the culture in general, sadly.

  11. 11
     
    T says:

    Thanks for this article – My sister lived in Paris for 6 months last year and I wanted badly to go visit her but felt like I shouldn’t even bother, due to food issues. It’s nice to hear about how GF people manage to travel!

  12. 12
     
    Karen says:

    This was a great article! I loved your positive attitude throughout.
    I just got back from living in Paris for a year and a half and would have loved to know about the restaurants you mentioned. I’ll definitely try them on the next trip (one day…).
    The one part I am confused/shocked about is that you were about to eat LaDuree macarons. I always assumed these contained gluten and passed them by whenever I went. If they are gluten-free, I am slightly devastated to know that I lived there for so long and never tried one! But it is very exciting to hear if there is a French pastry I can indulge in. What are they made of? I always assumed the flakey cookie part was from wheat flour. Thanks for your input.

  13. 13
     
    Danielle f says:

    Hi karen!!

    The outer cookies are made from egg whites, sugar, and finely ground
    almond flour. The ganache inside can be made from various things, but
    I couldn’t find anything that made them have gluten in them. Mostly
    some sort of sugar, and something to flavor them.

    Now I cannot vouch for cross contact, these are bakeries, but since
    they are so fancy, (and let’s face it, french), the confectioners are
    usually very meticulous about not mixing things and using everything
    clean.

    I ate them and didn’t have any problem, and they were good. I am so
    sorry that you missed out on them!!

    Take care, Danielle

  14. 14
     
    Kathay Parker says:

    I will be traveling to Paris in June with my 12 year old granddaughter who has PKU (phenylketoneuria). This means a very restricted diet and little to no protein except from foods prepared especially for people with PKU. Does anyone know of a store in Paris where these special foods can be purchased?

  15. 15
     
    Danielle f says:

    Kathay,
    I wish I could help you, I have no idea what that entails or what that
    is. I wish you the best of luck finding food for her.

    Only one idea comes to mind…do you have something written up that
    explains this diet? Maybe if you sent that to your concierge, he/she
    might be able to help? Or, do you have a place with acess to a
    kithenette?

    I hope you find some good foods for her and enjoy your trip.

    best of luck,
    Danielle

  16. 16
     
    Jay says:

    I will be going to Paris and then to Cannes later this year. Anyone have any tips for the French Riviera?

  17. 17
     
    fionnuala says:

    Aoki (35 rue de vaugirard 75006 Pari) also has really good macaroons – green tea and sesame flavours. Very sophisticated deserts – the chef makes Japanese inspired french pastries. Way better than Pierre Herme, arguably as good as Laduree. Also Aoiki and Laduree both have cakes with a dacquoise pastry – probably the best gluten free cakes you will ever try. Sometimes they have them in individual sizes too.

    BTW the gluten free croissants you can get in the health food stores are really good if you can heat them in the oven, my favourite are the apple turnovers.

    BREIZH CAFE (109 rue veille du temple in the Marais, 01 42 72 13 77) they do really good Brittany style crepes with buckwheat. Good idea to go late for lunch, book ahead, or be prepared to wait 20-30 min for a table.

    ROSE BAKERY – rue debellyme in the 3rd and rue des martyrs in the 9th. Healthy anglo style lunch and brunch stuff. They have a gluten free polenta cake – chocolate or lemon.

    CANNES – I’ve never found much in the way of gluten free there, except at the health food store and there are a few in the centre of town. I live in Paris and hardly know of a restaurant with gluten free things here (other than steak frites,etc), nevermind in Cannes. The restaurants in Cannes tend to be average and a little pricey. If you hear of anything let me know, I’ll be there again for work in May. I may try bringing my own pasta around with me this year to see if someone will make it for me. In Paris they’re not too eager to do that.

  18. 18
     
    Tracy says:

    I am going to Paris with my granddaughter (age almost 5) who has celiac disease. I wanted to make some reservations, but the restaurants, like Le Timbre and Le Reminet do not have e-mail addresses on their web sites. How did you go about making reservations and are these restaurants flexible to children’s menus. Thanks for your help. We are leaving in less than 2 weeks.

    Tracy

  19. 19
     

    Hi, fantastic! I’m taking my (GF) wife to Paris, and you give me some great suggestions! Do you mind if I link to you on my site? http://www.coeliaclist.co.uk and your restaurant suggestions?
    Thanks!
    Rob

  20. 20
     
    S.R. says:

    Thanks so much for this post! I am a newly diagnosed celiac (April 2010) and have yet to travel ANYWHERE while on this special diet let alone out of the country. I will be going to Canada, Paris, and Washington, DC this Fall, with Paris being the most daunting. Being in a country where you don’t speak the language is hard enough, but when you need things to be just right or you’ll get sick? Extra scary! Thanks for the great start to my research. :o)

  21. 21
     
    K.H. says:

    Hi,I live here in Paris and have Celiac. I just want to warn a lot of people that the info they get on theses sites are not really very accurate. In reading this type of info I made the decision to move here last year. I have since learned that it is nearly impossible to eat safely in restaurants. The head Celiac doctor here in France told me that I could not have chosen a worst place to move with my condition. The French don’t take this seriously and many times I am refused service, or served and made ill! After much trying, I gave up trying to eat out here. When reading peoples comments you have to use your own judgement. If you truely have Celiac you wouldn’t eat buckwheat crepes that are cooked on the same pan as the gluten containing ones! I don’t want to be negative, I just want to be realistic. Peoples health is dependent on this information. If the French took this seriously, why is there only one Gluten free restaurant in all of Paris! Pretty ridiculous!!!!

  22. 22
     
    jeni says:

    My daughter and I are both gluten, dairy and egg free. She and I are going to Paris in Feb. She is starting her career in modeling and is going to be going to many casting calls so needs to look and feel her best. I will be cooking most meals in the model housing. I would need to know were I can purchase ingredients to cook and bake while we are there. Perhaps I will bring some ingredients with. Any suggestions?

  23. 23
     
    Nina says:

    Thanks for this post! I am off to Paris in June and have been very nervous about the language barrier and communicating my dietary needs. I’m so relieved to see that there are some GF-friendly restaurants that I can try out.

  24. 24
     
    Phil Motron says:

    If you are looking for hotels in Paris which are able to serve gluten-free food, please visit http://www.glutenfreehotelsguide.com/city.php?id=4.
    The site lists hotels all over the world which are able to serve gluten free food.

  25. 25
     
    Nadine says:

    I have traveled all over the world and NOT had any trouble. I am a Celiac on the diet over 20 years. I are my way through France, Italy,Monaco, Monte Carlo, England &m Spain!

    This is a site that can handle ALL your GF travel needs they are extremely knowledgeable and Both women are Celiacs!

    http://www.glutenfreetravel-us.com

  26. 26
     
    Nadine says:

    I have traveled all over the world and NOT had any trouble. I am a Celiac on the diet over 20 years. I ate my way through France, Italy,Monaco, Monte Carlo, England &m Spain!

    This is a site that can handle ALL your GF travel needs they are extremely knowledgeable and Both women are Celiacs!

    http://www.glutenfreetravel-us.com

  27. 27
     
    Katie says:

    I found this article very helpful! I just went to an amazing creperie near Sacre Coeur. Creperie Broceliande, 15, rue des Trois Freres 75018. I noticed a sign out front that said their crepes were 100% buckwheat and also mentioned no gluten. I went in and spoke to the server and she was extremely knowledgeable. She asked if it was for an allergy and when I said yes, she said they would take precautions. After our meal, we ordered a crepe sucree for dessert. Normally, only the savory crepes are made with buckwheat and the sweet with wheat flour but she made sure our dessert crepe was made with buckwheat. She also knew to warn us against the chocolate because it had a bit of flour in it. She was very knowledgeable, the crepes were delicious and I highly recommend this establishment!

  28. 28
     
    SFL says:

    Hi there, Thank-you to you all. The author for sure and the comment contributors as well. I’m going to Paris tomorrow for the first time in my life. I feel lucky as I heard they have just opened a gluten free patisserie in Paris – MARIE TAGLIAFERRO is the owner. I’ll post you back as soon as I come back, hoping to add an Italian twist to the list! :)

  29. 29
     
    Karen L says:

    Our family is going to Paris next month. Not such a big event as we live in Europe anyway, but our entire family has celiac and other food intolerances. It’s always a challenge away from home, even just going downtown in our own city.

    We have combined intolerances to eggs, nuts, soy and citric acid as well as anything with even a hint of gluten to it. I can cook well enough at home, having done culinary school in Paris some 20 years ago, but restaurant accommodation might be somewhat more difficult, regardless of their talent. There’s only so much you can do. If anyone has any relevant info for me (since this page was posted some years ago now), please do give me a shout!

  30. 30
     
    Erin says:

    Thank you so much for this. I’ll be heading back to Paris in October for a few days, and this will be my first visit to the city while gluten free. Since my second language is Spanish, I’ve been a little nervous. Time to brush up my basic French phrases and print my cards! Thanks so much for the resources and encouragement!

  31. 31
     
    Debby says:

    Any new updates on where to eat? I am going to Paris next week for the first time.
    Thanks!

  32. 32
     
    Sherry says:

    A great totally gluten free restaurant in Paris: NOGLU, 16, Passage des Panoramas 75002 Paris, http://www.noglu.fr. I just had a delicious brunch that anyone would have enjoyed. It was a bit difficult to find since it is in a sort of arcade or gallery of shops, but well worth the search. Make reservations if you can as it was full, with a line outside the door. I have been in Paris a few days on business, and also enjoyed the fresh bread at Naturalia health food store which has several shops throughout the city.

  33. 33
     
    Wendy Janssen says:

    Danielle, thank you for your fabulous recap of your holiday, gluten free. I will be traveling to Paris with my husband in March and looking forward to sampling your favourite restaurants. I have been a Coeliac for over 5 years now and the last time we visited Paris I managed by shopping and cooking in our apartment, this will be hotel accommodation so a different experience. I do remember though a couple of wonderful small cafe owners who above and beyond to cater for me when we finally managed to communicate my gluten issues. The best ever grilled figs with cream with coffee while my husband and son enjoyed the amazing cakes…wonderful memories in the most unexpected places.

  34. 34
     
    Erin says:

    Thanks so much for the great info…I am currently planning my 10th anniversary trip to Paris and super excited, especially if I can find a way to not live on granola bars while I am there…

  35. 35
     
    Marji says:

    Thank you so much — our family has received the gift of a trip to Paris (From the Make A Wish Foundation) (six kids, youngest is 17) and two parents.

    One of my daughters is GF and we want her to have a lovely time — is all of this info still current?

    •  
      Kelly says:

      Marji,

      Wow! I’m so happy for you! As far as I know it is current, but always contact the places before you go. As you may know, restaurants can change overnight, and gf businesses don’t always make it, but these seem to be doing well.

      Have a fantastic time! xo

  36. 36
     

    Thanks! just what I needed to share with a client who is heading for Paris! great information! much appreciated!
    Trudy

  37. 37
     
    Stephanie says:

    Hi, We are planning a family trip to Paris and London this summer. My 10 year old has Celiac. The real problem is that she is a typical 10 yr old who likes chicken nuggets, french fries and pasta. Does anyone know if I will be able to find gf pasta for her in the restaurants? We are thinking of renting an apartment so that I can cook if need be, but we will still need to eat out and my husband and older daughter do not have to eat gf. I also want her to be able to experience crepes and other yummy desserts. Any suggestions or ideas would be great. Don’t want this disease to stop us but I am a bit nervous. Thank you for any help!!
    Stephanie

  38. 38
     
    T says:

    Thanks so much. I’m planning an upcoming trip and this was extremely helpful. Especially the macaroons as that was one of my questions! :)


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Thanks for stopping by! I'm Kelly Courson and this is where I've shared my gluten-free finds since 2003. The world has been my gluten-free oyster for 14 years now and I love sharing what I've learned in order to help others adapt to a gluten-free diet. Have a look around and feel free to leave a comment. Connecting with people like you is what has kept me going this long! Seriously.
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