Bar Breton
254 5th Avenue
New York, NY 10001
212.213.4999
This is a Twitter histoire d'amour (love story). Following up on a tip from two readers*, I asked in partial disbelief if any of my Twitter followers had experienced the gluten-free buckwheat galettes at Bar Breton. James Beard nominated Chef Cyril Renaud stumbled upon my tweet and joined in the conversation by inviting me to try his 100% buckwheat galettes. I went and met Cyril and Brigette Renaud for dinner and the rest is history. J'aime (I love) Bar Breton! And to think I used to be skeptical of Twitter!
Brigette first explained to me that she feels better when she doesn't eat gluten. About 90% of their menu was naturally gluten-free to begin with so it was easy for her to test this out. She still had a lot of questions to ask me. After I introduced her to all of her options as far as getting tested for celiac disease and the diet in general, I also told her about the different gluten-free certification programs that several celiac disease non-profit organizations offer. I emphasized how much our community really appreciates it when restaurants make the extra effort to get certified in order to ensure our safety.
The next time I went back to visit with this dynamic duo they had joined the NFCA's GREAT certification program and were really excited. While I looked over their new menu with "GF=gluten-free" notes, they told me that they bought a new batter bowl that is for galette use only. They also explained how they even rearranged the kitchen for a separate fryer to be used for the french fries and chicken wings! Chapeaux! (Hats off!) They spent hours going through everything, reading labels and listing ingredients. One thing that made it a bit easier for them to do this was the fact that Cyril is the type of chef that makes his own stocks and other items fresh every day, so there aren't any mystery ingredients in anything.
Oh, and I should tell you that Chef Renaud used to work with Bouley and his restaurant Fleur de Sel received a Michelin Star.
While we were talking I had hinted at my personal dream of every restaurant having a list available of every ingredient in every dish. I explained how this would not only make it easier for those of us with additional food allergies, but for the wait staff too. I knew it was a long shot, but mentioned it anyway...and guess what?!! They did it tout de suite! Magnifique! (Immediately! Magnificent!) It is in a black binder available at the front desk!!! I love these people!!
The making of a galette
So, you may be wondering, "What is a galette?" It is similar to a crepe, but it is made with buckwheat flour. They are a regional favorite in Bretagne (Brittany**), where Chef Renaud is from. I had heard of galettes before, but in recipes they always seemed to be mixed with wheat flour. I had read that they were made from 100% buckwheat flour in France and even tried to make my own years ago, but to no avail. They were gritty and unimpressive. Chef Renaud told me the secret: French buckwheat flour is ground a lot finer than most American buckwheat flours. Voila! He told me it was hard to find a buckwheat flour here in America that would work right. It needs to be silky smooth.
Foreground:Open Faced Galette w/Spinach Coulis, Goat Cheese, Sun Dried Tomatoes, and Parmesan aka The Vegetarian Galette. Background:Black Forest Ham Galette w/Swiss Cheese, Egg,Swiss Cheese and mushrooms; a classic Breton galette.
My favorite: House Smoked Salmon Galette w/Horseradish Creme, Shallots, Chives, Radish & Capers
Lasagne of Braised Lamb Shoulder, Glazed Turnips and Thyme Jus. No worries, the term "lasagne" is just due to the layering of two smaller galettes, like when you make lasagne. Not only is this dish pretty, but the flavor is so intense and amazing. Something you are not likely to be able to duplicate at home.
Gluten-Free Frites w/Rosemary!!!
I enjoyed the new chicken wings while looking over the gluten-free notes on the menu.
Leave it to a French chef to put a classy spin on chicken wings.
The front of the restaurant
The back of the restaurant
As you can see, the atmosphere at Bar Breton is quite cozy, lending itself to many occasions ranging from an intimate rendez-vous date to dinner with friends. Brunch is especially popular with the neighborhood locals, which includes a lot of families.
This avante garde chandelier was designed by Chef Renaud and is a pot-pourri of over 200 antique wine glasses.
And if you aren't convinced to go to Bar Breton yet, let me show you the desserts....
Nutella galette
The nutella galette is served warm and oozing with nutella. Brigette thinks that the nutella compliments the less sweet buckwheat galette better than the standard crepe. Yeah, who needs crepes?!
The more traditional buckwheat galette served with honey and whipped cream. C'est bon! (It's good!)
Creme brulee or chocolate mousse? Decisions, decisions. Of course the creme brulee is the real deal complete with Armagnac prunes. And chocolate mousse is always a favorite, just be sure to order it without the crisped rice on top.
So, where else in the city can you get fancy pants quality French food for everyday people prices? The most expensive galette on the menu is $18 and the most expensive regular entree is $21. Real food for real people made by a real French chef. Need I say more? ça s'arrose! (let's drink to that! or that calls for a celebration/drink!)
*Merci Beaucoup, Suzana and Justin!
**Someone from Brittany is called a Breton, thus the name of the restaurant.
