Grolla
2930 NE Killingsworth
Portland, Oregon 97221
503.493.9521
Have you ever driven through a neighborhood that reminds you to lock your doors and say a little prayer that Ol' Betsy doesn't suddenly break down? When I lived in Portland, Oregon nine years ago, that area had a street appropriately named NE Killingsworth. A lot has changed since I've been gone, and now the area is surprisingly cute and family friendly. You can imagine how strange it was, in a good way, to intentionally return in order to visit the fantastic gluten-free Grolla restaurant.
Grolla was easy to spot with its rustic artsy sign and doors open, as if reaching out to welcome us. The decor is made up of charmingly mismatched antiques and a backdrop of rich velvet drapes. We enjoyed a glass of champagne at one of the sidewalk tables as the owner, Christopher Lachman, explained the story behind Grolla while exchanging waves with neighbors walking by...
"Grolla means grail in Latin and in old school Rome hand blown glasses for wine were very expensive. A family would buy one grolla and use it for special occasions, but never in sorrow." Thus, the Lachman's like to think of the grolla as a symbol for memorable times accentuated with fine food and drink.
Lachman's wife and two daughters both have celiac disease, so the gluten-free menu at Grolla was a natural response to their diet while also fulfilling the requests of a few regular customers. (Nightshade allergies, vegetarian and kosher diets can also be accommodated.) After consulting with French-trained chef James Healey, they realized that cooking gluten-free was fairly easy since they cook from scratch. The chef started steering more towards gluten-free menu items, so when they suddenly got a rush of people due to a GIG recommendation, the decision was made to go totally gluten-free. They reasoned, "Why not go gluten-free to the point that no one would ever notice a difference?", and realized that by removing the need for a separate gluten-free menu, it was easier to train the waitstaff. The restaurant is technically 100% gluten-free, aside from the regular wheat bread they have available. The kitchen is free from possible cross-contamination since the bread is cut elsewhere.
The Lachmans like to consider Grolla a fine dining establishment that just happens to be gluten-free. The seasonal menu centers around Pacific Northwest cuisine with a Mediterranean influence using local ingredients, including those from their deer-fenced 16 acre family farm. They grow plums, figs, apples, cherries, heirloom tomatoes, all of which are organic.
One of my favorite statements of Lachman on this evening was, "All the credit goes to my wife Angela, who insisted on local NW ingredients and reminds me that, 'California is not a season.' "
Since Lachman spent many years as a wine distributor, he knows his vino. With New York City prices in mind, we opted for the reasonably priced five course tasting menu with wine. (Where else do you get a table side interview as a guest to determine your tastes, allergies and/or intolerances?!) The food was superb and the perfectly paired wine was intoxicating both to my brain cells and to my senses. If you are a lightweight drinker, you'd better keep an eye on your glass, because the pours are generous and go down with a slickness. Pictured above is our starter of tomato artichoke gazpacho paired with a 2005 Chilean Sauvinon Blanc. I loved it, and I'm a girl that usually wrinkles her nose at gazpacho.
Our appetizer was a choice of shaved asparagus and orange salad or stuffed peas with walnut chevre goat cheese (above) paired with a 2001 Idylwood Pinor Noir. As you can see, presentation is just as important as taste at Grolla.
Pan seared Albacore tuna with rice and asparagus resting on an apricot reisling coulis (foreground) and Washington blue mussels (background) were served with a 2003 Los Planos Shiraz from Spain.
Are you full yet? Well, too bad, because there is more! A lot more! So take a little wine break, exchange some witty banter with your table neighbors (this is allowed in Oregon) and get ready for more food. Here is some Strawberry Mountain flatiron steak (foreground) and lamb stew over jasmine rice with roasted asparagus (background). Okay, this is where my notes get a little spotty and hard to read, no doubt due to the effects of the wine. Please bear with me.
Dessert was vanilla creme brulee (left background), dark chocolate almond frozen custard (left front) and a mango avocado vegan ice cream (right front). This was paired with R.C. Buller & Sons Victorian tawny port from Australia.
So, as you can see from our sensual feast, Grolla has it going on when it comes to scrumptious and delectable food and drink. The regular menu would be perfect for a leisurely night out, while the tasting menu lends itself to a most toothsome celebration.
